Il Finale

Ahhh the cheese. The profume of stinky cheese fills the streets of Pienza. My favorite version is covered in wood ashes (who would have thought?). I wish I could take a whole store full home with me.

Beef carpaccio (thinly sliced raw beef marinated in something with olive oil, spicey greens and the best parmigiano cheese I ever tasted)

My cantina-like (wine cellar) room. It was so nice and cool in there.

This Tower in Montichiello has been converted into a home. What a view they must have!

Italians really do potted plants well. They grow everything in pots- even hosta, hydrangea, huge vines of jasmine, rose bushes, etc.

My last beautiful night was is Montichiello, a tiny walled village with 2 restaurants, 1 artist shop, 1 linen shop, 1 public phone and that's it. It is most known for its popular theatre. Each year they put on a politically inspired play that is written and produced by the people in the village. The big show is a few weeks away so they are practicing every night at 9:30pm. I watched for awhile last night. I saw a scene with 20 villagers in it and there are lots of child actors as well. I think the whole village really is in on it. What I saw was quite funny and very well done. The economic crisis was the main topic, here are a few quotes (probably not a perfect translation) "it is just a psychological crisis." "No it is a crisis of the family- too much divorce." "It is our great moment as Italians to express our patriotism and overcome this hurdle." "It doesn't matter, so long as we are free human beings alive in the profound cosmos, we are OK." Political melodrama, if course.   It was hard to go to sleep before the rehersal was over (it was in a little piazza next to my room on a stage that was constructed that morning). A really great feeling of solidarity, working together, and fun.

My last supper was a delicious very thin homemade pasta with zucchini and zucchini flowers in a light cream and saffron sauce. And a large glass of Vino Nobile. Is wine usually 14.5% alcohol? I took a slightly swaying walk at sunset around the perimeter of the town and saw a beautiful sunset panorama.

My last walk, the next morning was to Montepulciano.  I  started at 7am. It was long and steep, with herds of sheep flowing over ridges with the accompanyment of tinkling bells. I found sour but very good little yellow plums and another oblong pink fruit that was incredibly sweet with honey like juice clinging in drops to the bottom of each ripe fruit. Such treats growing on the side of the road just for me! Good thing too because that last walk was hot and tiring. It is discouraging to look down a long steeply descending trail in front of you and the imposiible cliff infront of that with your destination on top. If only I could climb up only once and then float from peak to peak. Ah but life is never that way. The last walk left me wishing for more but very grateful for the experience I had.

What a trip it was. Thanks for letting me share it with you.

Le Zanzare

What a great word for mosquitoes, zanzare, sounds just like the wretched little creatures in your ear when you are trying to sleep. Italians love their comfort but why no screens on the windows? I started hanging large bunches of lavender (rumored to repel insects)  over my sleeping head. Not sure if it helps but it makes for sweet smelling dreams.

Sorry this is a terrible photo, it is a tuft of flowers left by a farmer who purposefully steered his tractor around it so we can continue to enjoy the flowers. Reminded me of a poem by Robert Frost ("the Tuft of Flowers"). Same thing only flowers left by a farmer with a scythe.

Another 1100AD church (so says my book, but a man picnicing near the church said it was from 800 AD). This one so playful. At the entrance to the walls of Pienza where I am now.

grilled eggplant, zucchini, and red pepers with olive oil and balsalmic vinegar, very sharp peccorino and arugula. Intense.

toliet instructions?

Follow the Roman Road

Door to the pizza oven

There is beautiful stencilling everywhere. This at the farm I slept at last night.

My trips follows (more or less) an ancient pilgrimage route from northern Europe to Rome (La Francigena).  Yesterday was the first time I could see remnants of the old Roman road. Look at the line of square stones on the right side of the photo. Subtle but really exciting to find.

Over dinner last night I learned that in Switzerland there is no 1 head of state but instead 7 elected leaders. My new Swiss friend told me that even they (the 7) are not necessary since any citizen can start a petition, get enough signatures and it will become a public referendum and if voted in becomes law. They vote on such questions about 1 per month. Now that sounds like direct democracy. In Italy on the other hand, there are numerous laws enacted by the chaotic parliament but the public decides which laws they will follow. If they don't like the law it will not be obeyed. A very diffent style of direct democracy.

Best new food. Whole pears (skin, stem, all) cooked in red wine with sugar. The sauce reduced to a thick deep maroon syrup. So good. 

Best new sound. I walked past a flock of about 100 sheep. Each animal had a bell around its neck. Such a nice sound they made as they grazed. One black sheep in the flock, of course.

Ancient Places

Brunello Vineyard, Roses at the end of each row.

Just left Brunello country - the world famous wine. Tried several vintages a few nights ago with some Russian wine conoseurs. To my surprise, the taste was the same as the homemade wine I had in Buonconvento at the little family restaurant with the very long oral menu and the fantastic rabbit with rosemary. There, they put a bottle of wine on every table.  After you finish your meal and you go downstairs to pay, the Signora asks you, "did you drink a little wine or a lot?" And that's how she knows what to charge. I didn't like the wine very much, but I must admit that after several tastes with the Russians, it has really grown on me. (in Buonconvento I paid about 3 euro for my "little wine", but in Montalcino the cheapest bottle was closed to $50!)

On the walk from Montalcino to St. Antimo Monastery, I saw a backyard garden in the country where they were growing a little wheat for the family. Wheat! It had been harvested and each bunch tied up like in pinoneer times.

The Monastery of St. Antimo was a large version of the ancient stone relief I wrote about last time. Built in 1100AD It was simple and plain but magnificent. There were only 9 monks chanting but the sound was large and permeating. A beautiful and spiritual experience.

The timber frame ceiling of St. Antimo was impossible high with small arched windows near the top that unfortunately were so full of cobwebs the light was obscured. I suppose back in 1100AD there was no glass on the windows and the wind blew through and kept them clean. The monks used copious amounts of incense to cleanse eachother - reminded me of how natives use sweet grass. There were beautiful carvings of animals and plants and geometric patterns. (unlike the last abbey I visited where the decor was so over the top. There, the crucifix had so much blood pouring down Christ's body, he surely would have bled to death in seconds)

Olive Tree next to St. Antimo Abbey

They say olive trees can live for over 1000 years, was this here in 1100 AD?

I stayed on a farm near this monastery, lovely old building. The hiking is great, hot and lots of up and down hill, a little getting lost but not much. The Italian trail system is incredible, paths all over. At the major intersections with roads there are signs with maps and every tree is marked for a while, but that usually peters out a little ways in, and after a while you come to an interesection with 4 or 5 trails without a sign or marking in sight. Ahh the benevalent chaos of Italy. Perhaps that is why I am so good at starting things and not so good at finishing them. It is genetic!

Lovely farm building, one of my overnights.  Growing Brunello and olive oil.

The source of the famous peccorino cheese

Communal wood-fired pizza oven in a tiny village. We need one of these in Bocabec!

What incredible potted plants here.  This massive lavender bush is growing in a clay pot!

A pretty (and ancient) rain drain

Approaching the castle gate, my accommodations for the night.  Thank God for my great boots and tiny backpack. My body feels great despite intense heat and steep slopes. I feel like I would like to travel on foot forever.

A wonderful trip. I have slowed down alot and find the Italian rythm of life rejuvenating. 

Ancient Places, a castle and the spa, ahhh

A night in the castle. Perched far above the river D'Orcia - opaque icey blue color.

Imagine finding this pool at the end of a long hot hike! Welcome to Bagno Vignoni -Ancient Roman spa. When I entered the pools next to my hotel, I was very pleased with the warm sulfer bath and the cooler pool with the waterfall. But then I noticed stairs leading down to the "Room of Great Health and Beauty" (my translation). Apparantly a Roman Sauna is an unbearable hot room dimly lit (fading from white to purple to yellow) with an overflowing steaming pool in the centre, with slow Aerosmith piped in. Very dramatic. Followed by a room with cold showers, the shower head fit for an elephant with a gush of water sented with cedar, followed by the "relaxation room" - lounge chairs with sounds of running water, birds and faint music.  I am so relaxed that the world seems to just glide past me in continuous fluid motion.  I will try the mud and herbal sauna next.  Italians really know how to live.

food and the spirit

Best new dish today: Bread grilled over a fire, with melted sharp peccorino (sheep milk) cheese and honey. Wow

The spirit: I am following the wind completely (my inner voice that is). I entered a dark crumbly chruch this morning, not very nice but  I was drawn to it and especially to a small room in the back which held this ancient stone relief (circa 1000AD) of a Christ-like figure at the centre making the sign of peace and all sorts of plants and animals around it. It looked indigenous, or pagan, close to the earth anyways. I loved it. So much more than the usual ornate church decor.

Just read the best novel and it was set right here (literally the towns I am visiting are all mentioned in the book)  A great read about a man who follows his intuition and responds to a dream to save his town. So funny I laughed out loud often.  Called "Renato's Luck" by Jeff Shapiro.

Yeah photos!

The Gutters are all copper. Imagine!

My first Monastery Monte Olivieto Maggiore.

A typical Tuscan shot

Everywhere gardens. I think they are saving onion seed. So smart.

This is a single Rosemary plant!

Buonconvento- the festa was here

Wild artichokes on the trail

Oh the doors. Look at them knockers. Some are bigger than my head.

Roses at the end of every row of grape vines- everybody does it. how nice.

My favorite Italian vehicle: The one-person pick up.

Who Wouldn't Love Italy?

Ugh! after great effort I cannot figure out how to load the photos from my camera. I m ust learn all those computer words in Italian. Perhaps later. For now a few stories.

All is well.  The walking is hot and sweaty but lovely. There are incredible wildflowers everwhere not too mention the wild artichokes, chamomile, fennel, mint, figs etc. growing on the side of the road. And the gardens are fantastic!  Everyone grows there own food, community gardens, rooftops, containers you name it. Even herbs growing out of the cracks in ancient stone walls. At the first Abbey I stayed at, they were growing basil in the forest, in the shade! and it was gorgeous. The monks there made herbal tonics of all kinds from their gardens. A cure for every ill. They have been making these for centuries. I wished I could buy some, but there is a long road ahead for me and my little backpack. 

Food! I have eaten so many good things already. My favorite so far was rabbit in olive oil with rosemary, with roasted vegetables (eggplant, red peppers and artichokes) in a deep green olive oil with mint. Fantastic. The meat is also gorgeous. I had a thick t-bone steak of veal. They don't ask you how you want it cooked. It all comes very rare. I loved it.

I notice that all the food available in the shops and restaurants is grown locally. There is nothing exotic. A true local economy, except for the coffee, chocolate, cinnamon, vanilla, and sugar.  I heard someone on CBC radio describing his prediction of post-petroleum society and it sounded very similar.  Only import the most precious items and produce the rest close to home.

I was in a tiny medieval walled village 2 days ago called Buonconvento during their festival of St. Peter and St. Paul when a group of old men on bicycles passed me arguing about who is the best dancer. I missed the dance competition but saw several of them dancing at the public dance that evening. I thought the small old man in the tight purple shirt with the red blazer was the best. His wife, of the same age, wore a sweater that revealed her navel. I couldn't help but smile at their enthusiasm for life. Incredible firework display at midnight.  The man next to me kept saying, "This is the finale", and 5 minutes later, "This is really the finale", 5 minutes more, "This is definitely the finale" and on it went for 30 minutes or more.  They seemed to specialize in fireworks with strange sounds - far beyond the usual buzzing and whistling.  One sounded like a cat meowing, then there was a baby crying, and another was a scream from a horror movie.  Great fun.

I am now in the hilltop town of Montalcino. The streets are so steep I long for handrails. How do the old people do it? I saw a man yesterday riding his bicycle with his cane hooked around the handlebars. The key may be fitness.

I hope to show some photos. I will try again later. It is stunning here. There is a panorama all around this town of the farms, vineyards, forests and rivers below. Love to all. Maria

One week and Counting

Just testing this technology.  I leave one week from today for Italy.  Stay tuned....