Ancient Places

Brunello Vineyard, Roses at the end of each row.

Just left Brunello country - the world famous wine. Tried several vintages a few nights ago with some Russian wine conoseurs. To my surprise, the taste was the same as the homemade wine I had in Buonconvento at the little family restaurant with the very long oral menu and the fantastic rabbit with rosemary. There, they put a bottle of wine on every table.  After you finish your meal and you go downstairs to pay, the Signora asks you, "did you drink a little wine or a lot?" And that's how she knows what to charge. I didn't like the wine very much, but I must admit that after several tastes with the Russians, it has really grown on me. (in Buonconvento I paid about 3 euro for my "little wine", but in Montalcino the cheapest bottle was closed to $50!)

On the walk from Montalcino to St. Antimo Monastery, I saw a backyard garden in the country where they were growing a little wheat for the family. Wheat! It had been harvested and each bunch tied up like in pinoneer times.

The Monastery of St. Antimo was a large version of the ancient stone relief I wrote about last time. Built in 1100AD It was simple and plain but magnificent. There were only 9 monks chanting but the sound was large and permeating. A beautiful and spiritual experience.

The timber frame ceiling of St. Antimo was impossible high with small arched windows near the top that unfortunately were so full of cobwebs the light was obscured. I suppose back in 1100AD there was no glass on the windows and the wind blew through and kept them clean. The monks used copious amounts of incense to cleanse eachother - reminded me of how natives use sweet grass. There were beautiful carvings of animals and plants and geometric patterns. (unlike the last abbey I visited where the decor was so over the top. There, the crucifix had so much blood pouring down Christ's body, he surely would have bled to death in seconds)

Olive Tree next to St. Antimo Abbey

They say olive trees can live for over 1000 years, was this here in 1100 AD?

I stayed on a farm near this monastery, lovely old building. The hiking is great, hot and lots of up and down hill, a little getting lost but not much. The Italian trail system is incredible, paths all over. At the major intersections with roads there are signs with maps and every tree is marked for a while, but that usually peters out a little ways in, and after a while you come to an interesection with 4 or 5 trails without a sign or marking in sight. Ahh the benevalent chaos of Italy. Perhaps that is why I am so good at starting things and not so good at finishing them. It is genetic!

Lovely farm building, one of my overnights.  Growing Brunello and olive oil.

The source of the famous peccorino cheese

Communal wood-fired pizza oven in a tiny village. We need one of these in Bocabec!

What incredible potted plants here.  This massive lavender bush is growing in a clay pot!

A pretty (and ancient) rain drain

Approaching the castle gate, my accommodations for the night.  Thank God for my great boots and tiny backpack. My body feels great despite intense heat and steep slopes. I feel like I would like to travel on foot forever.

A wonderful trip. I have slowed down alot and find the Italian rythm of life rejuvenating.