Tuesday, June 30, 2009

food and the spirit

Best new dish today: Bread grilled over a fire, with melted sharp peccorino (sheep milk) cheese and honey. Wow

The spirit: I am following the wind completely (my inner voice that is). I entered a dark crumbly chruch this morning, not very nice but  I was drawn to it and especially to a small room in the back which held this ancient stone relief (circa 1000AD) of a Christ-like figure at the centre making the sign of peace and all sorts of plants and animals around it. It looked indigenous, or pagan, close to the earth anyways. I loved it. So much more than the usual ornate church decor.

Just read the best novel and it was set right here (literally the towns I am visiting are all mentioned in the book)  A great read about a man who follows his intuition and responds to a dream to save his town. So funny I laughed out loud often.  Called "Renato's Luck" by Jeff Shapiro.

Yeah photos!



The Gutters are all copper. Imagine!
My first Monastery Monte Olivieto Maggiore.
A typical Tuscan shot

Everywhere gardens. I think they are saving onion seed. So smart.
This is a single Rosemary plant!

Buonconvento- the festa was here
Wild artichokes on the trail




Oh the doors. Look at them knockers. Some are bigger than my head.

Roses at the end of every row of grape vines- everybody does it. how nice.

My favorite Italian vehicle: The one-person pick up.










































































Who Wouldn't Love Italy?

Ugh! after great effort I cannot figure out how to load the photos from my camera. I m ust learn all those computer words in Italian. Perhaps later. For now a few stories.

All is well.  The walking is hot and sweaty but lovely. There are incredible wildflowers everwhere not too mention the wild artichokes, chamomile, fennel, mint, figs etc. growing on the side of the road. And the gardens are fantastic!  Everyone grows there own food, community gardens, rooftops, containers you name it. Even herbs growing out of the cracks in ancient stone walls. At the first Abbey I stayed at, they were growing basil in the forest, in the shade! and it was gorgeous. The monks there made herbal tonics of all kinds from their gardens. A cure for every ill. They have been making these for centuries. I wished I could buy some, but there is a long road ahead for me and my little backpack. 

Food! I have eaten so many good things already. My favorite so far was rabbit in olive oil with rosemary, with roasted vegetables (eggplant, red peppers and artichokes) in a deep green olive oil with mint. Fantastic. The meat is also gorgeous. I had a thick t-bone steak of veal. They don't ask you how you want it cooked. It all comes very rare. I loved it.

I notice that all the food available in the shops and restaurants is grown locally. There is nothing exotic. A true local economy, except for the coffee, chocolate, cinnamon, vanilla, and sugar.  I heard someone on CBC radio describing his prediction of post-petroleum society and it sounded very similar.  Only import the most precious items and produce the rest close to home.

I was in a tiny medieval walled village 2 days ago called Buonconvento during their festival of St. Peter and St. Paul when a group of old men on bicycles passed me arguing about who is the best dancer. I missed the dance competition but saw several of them dancing at the public dance that evening. I thought the small old man in the tight purple shirt with the red blazer was the best. His wife, of the same age, wore a sweater that revealed her navel. I couldn't help but smile at their enthusiasm for life. Incredible firework display at midnight.  The man next to me kept saying, "This is the finale", and 5 minutes later, "This is really the finale", 5 minutes more, "This is definitely the finale" and on it went for 30 minutes or more.  They seemed to specialize in fireworks with strange sounds - far beyond the usual buzzing and whistling.  One sounded like a cat meowing, then there was a baby crying, and another was a scream from a horror movie.  Great fun.

I am now in the hilltop town of Montalcino. The streets are so steep I long for handrails. How do the old people do it? I saw a man yesterday riding his bicycle with his cane hooked around the handlebars. The key may be fitness.

I hope to show some photos. I will try again later. It is stunning here. There is a panorama all around this town of the farms, vineyards, forests and rivers below. Love to all. Maria

Thursday, June 18, 2009

One week and Counting

Just testing this technology.  I leave one week from today for Italy.  Stay tuned....